Here are some notes from an interview I conducted with fashion designer Emma Manhart, who last year showed at New Zealand fashion week for the first time. She is very focussed on sustainability, which I do not think I am really. But I agree with some of her beliefs, including the idea that garments can be made locally by local people. I agree that this supports the community while also saving on carbon emissions and unethical practices overseas.
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| Photo taken by me at Emma's store |
What made you want to be a designer?
I have always had an interest in textiles and making things. I actually studied and worked as an engineer before I got into fashion. I did love working as an engineer, but when I sat down and asked myself what I really wanted to be if I could do anything in the world without having to worry about time or money I realised I was more passionate about fashion and clothing. I then studied the costume design course at NMIT and learnt about pattern making and costume. It was a really good course which gave me a solid grounding in fashion, but they’ve stopped doing that course now unfortunately.
Once I graduated I then found a niche in the market, which was making merino felt coats, with possum fur collars. I developed the merino felt, which is a blend of merino wool and felt. These proved to be quite popular as I sold them in boutiques around New Zealand. Although they were very expensive to buy it could have never been enough to make a living as the market for them was there, but it wasn’t that large.
I think they want high quality garments, that can be worn as everyday wear, for work, or for an event. I assume they want bright colours for Summer and colourful patterns in Winter to stand out and be a bit different from the norm. Although I don’t think they want to stand out too much, so I don’t go completely out there with my designs or nobody would buy my garments. I am dictated to by the customers and what they want from my designs.
Well by asking some of them, I assume they come to my store for good quality items that will last more than a season. I want my garments to last at least 10 years. I also think that they come here because my designs are flattering, I ask women about their figures and what they like and don’t like about them, then I am able to create garments to suit a large range of different sizes and shapes. For example, I have learnt that most woman are smaller just under the bust than around their waist, as is more commonly believed. From this, I can create flattering garments, with perfect cuts for the clients. Having my own shop gives me the opportunity to learn from my clients about what women want. I could not have gained all of the knowledge I now have if I didn’t have this store. NOTE: While in the store I asked one shopper how she perceived Emma’s designs. She said she came to the store for high quality items that last years. She said the patterns and bright colours never go out of season, so she does not have to replace her Emma Manhart garments once the trends changed. She said it was well worth spending the money as the garments last and are unique and stylish. The service is intimate and friendly, which is quite unique compared to other stores these days. Other than high quality and flattering, I hope people perceive my designs as innovative and fun. I don’t want them to think they are too innovative or scary though. I also hope they find my garments to use new design details and a range of fabrics effectively, and realise how environmentally friendly my garments are.
I think an important idea that I follow is that my garments are made locally, using local people, with local materials, for the local people to buy. I like to keep things in New Zealand and improve the New Zealand industry. On a small scale I hope to make the fashion industry last longer and be of a high standard. By keeping my business local I employ local people and use local goods, which helps the community.
I believe if you can be independent you should be. That is why I try and do everything locally. I want to give back to society not take away from it. I am also inspired by the people that come into my store. Without them I wouldn’t have a store, I wouldn’t have survived the recession. They are important and I listen and learn from them. For instance, through my clients I know that only about 10% of women have a bigger bust than hips, therefore my clothing is designed to suit the 90%. If I designed in the opposite way, that ninety percent would leave my store dressed in something that just didn’t suit them as much as it could. That’s not what I aspire to, and that’s why my clients inspire my garments.
I have a sense of complete freedom. I make my own designs and sell them. It’s sustainable. The thing that I value most though is the fact that I have fulfilled my ethical beliefs and vision statement. I wanted to use quality materials that are locally made. I wanted it to be a local business, that does everything locally. I believe I have achieved this. I love how my garments are New Zealand made and I am supporting my own country. My business does not depend on anything global, it’s all New Zealand reliant. It’s a very nice feeling.
I don’t think I really create anything that would be outwardly controversial. I’m not that edgy. The most controversial thing I have used is possum fur, which is often used on our garments, and was used in my first coat designs. But that fits with our environmental philosophy because possums are classified pests and by using possum fur we are helping to save our environment, on a small scale. Some people don’t get that.
Well, we need to make sure the quality of garments is high, they can’t just fall apart. The Consumer Guarantees Act covers that. We also pride ourselves on being nice to the customers so that they can have a positive experience in the store. We treat a person as a person. We definitely don’t mention anything about size or shape, as that could really hurt someone. Even saying something like ‘actually you might be a size 12’ could be taken in a really offensive way. We wait for customers to mention size and shape if they need help with something.
Of course if there’s any problem with a garment we will take it back and exchange it for the customer. Or if the paper advertises the wrong price for a garment we would honour the price. But there’s only one or two returned, out of hundreds and hundreds that are sold each year. If there is something wrong with a garment we genuinely hope that the customer comes back, as we cannot learn from our mistakes if we don’t know, and the client would not return to our store either.
There are no independent checks done. But we are very good at quality assurance. I check the garments and then Cheryl does quality checks too when we have created a garment. Before the final product, we check the patterns and make changes when needed. We check each others work internally, and it works really well.
All of the legal codes and acts that I need to know I have found out through my accountant. Other than that I have found out a lot about the legal requirements and practices through courses that I have taken. Apart from the obvious following laws in the making and selling of the garments, we also have to make sure we pay tax and bills.
My responsibilities aren’t just about laws and codes. I have an ethical need to make my garments as good as possible. The customers control my business, if the garments were created badly they wouldn’t come back, even if there were no laws controlling quality. I would feel bad as well. We’re not streamlined. I pay my employees a decent wage because I value them. If there was no minimum wage I would still pay them as much, because I see what they do for my business and I recognise that their contributions have to be valued. I believe if people know that they are valued they will enjoy their work and do a quality job.
Do you follow current designers and trends, and do these inspire or influence your designs?
I like to keep an eye on current trends and designers that are developing their brands and showing at Fashion Week. I am not really influenced by the designers that I follow though. I am definitely dictated to by the fabric collections that are available each season. The fabric reps pick which fabrics they think will sell based on overseas markets. So I guess I am influenced by overseas designers indirectly, through the fabric reps because they are influenced by overseas fashion markets. I am limited by their fabric choices because New Zealand is small and we only get about two thirds of the supplies. I would not say that I designed for the trends though. Most of the current fashion trends do not suit ninety percent of woman. I prefer to make my designs suit almost all woman, that way they can leave my store feeling confident and pleased.
How do you decide on sizing or shape of designs?
Our designs are standard sizing. The average is for size 12. We grade for the full range of sizes though, from 8-10 to 18. The shape of our fitted dresses and other garments are dictated by the feedback from our clients. We listen and watch them, and their responses then influence the shape of our designs.
What do your clients want from your designs?
I think they want high quality garments, that can be worn as everyday wear, for work, or for an event. I assume they want bright colours for Summer and colourful patterns in Winter to stand out and be a bit different from the norm. Although I don’t think they want to stand out too much, so I don’t go completely out there with my designs or nobody would buy my garments. I am dictated to by the customers and what they want from my designs.
How do people perceive your designs?
Well by asking some of them, I assume they come to my store for good quality items that will last more than a season. I want my garments to last at least 10 years. I also think that they come here because my designs are flattering, I ask women about their figures and what they like and don’t like about them, then I am able to create garments to suit a large range of different sizes and shapes. For example, I have learnt that most woman are smaller just under the bust than around their waist, as is more commonly believed. From this, I can create flattering garments, with perfect cuts for the clients. Having my own shop gives me the opportunity to learn from my clients about what women want. I could not have gained all of the knowledge I now have if I didn’t have this store. NOTE: While in the store I asked one shopper how she perceived Emma’s designs. She said she came to the store for high quality items that last years. She said the patterns and bright colours never go out of season, so she does not have to replace her Emma Manhart garments once the trends changed. She said it was well worth spending the money as the garments last and are unique and stylish. The service is intimate and friendly, which is quite unique compared to other stores these days. Other than high quality and flattering, I hope people perceive my designs as innovative and fun. I don’t want them to think they are too innovative or scary though. I also hope they find my garments to use new design details and a range of fabrics effectively, and realise how environmentally friendly my garments are.
Do you have a theme or idea that you would like your clothing to be?
I think an important idea that I follow is that my garments are made locally, using local people, with local materials, for the local people to buy. I like to keep things in New Zealand and improve the New Zealand industry. On a small scale I hope to make the fashion industry last longer and be of a high standard. By keeping my business local I employ local people and use local goods, which helps the community.
What inspires your designs?
What do you value about your designs?
What are your beliefs about fashion?
I always had strong beliefs about what I wanted for my own fashion label. I operate with the quadruple belief, which is social, community, economical, and something else, consideration, where you think about all these factors. I want to work in a good way, that is ethical. I do not want to adversely effect or negatively impact on society, I don’t think fashion should do that. In my fashion shows I use real woman, not skinny models. I strongly believe in making local and affordable garments for local women. I believe fashion should be sustainable and fun.
Do you exclude from creating things that may be controversial, e.g. animal fur?
What responsibilities do you have to your customers?
How does the Fair Trading and Consumer Guarantees Act effect you?
Does anyone check your work to make sure you are doing a good job? Does someone appraise your practice?
How do you make sure you follow legal codes and acts?
Without laws and codes would your designs be different?
I could look into this, but I think that I still want to have more of a focus on how my products are made. I would like to research new and high tech ways to create garments, as I find that a lot more relevant to my collection's idea/theme.
I want to find out about:
• New ways of apparel manufacture
• High-tech fashions and the use of technology
• Garments with a purpose
• Innovative and practical materials
• Ways to save money by using technology
Rather than focussing on fast fashion how I had originally thought, I now think that I would like to look into innovative and high tech fashion design.
I want to find out about:
• New ways of apparel manufacture
• High-tech fashions and the use of technology
• Garments with a purpose
• Innovative and practical materials
• Ways to save money by using technology
Rather than focussing on fast fashion how I had originally thought, I now think that I would like to look into innovative and high tech fashion design.
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